The Hearty All-American Sandwich Bread I am Baking All Winter Lengthy

Why It Works

Utilizing a cornmeal porridge as a substitute of dry cornmeal as the bottom of the dough retains the bread from having a sandy or gritty texture.
Brushing the baked loaf with butter when it is nonetheless heat softens the crust and provides it a shiny sheen.

New Englanders have a protracted custom of remodeling easy, thrifty components into cozy, hearty fare. Anadama bread, the traditional New England loaf, is a superb instance of this sort of cooking. It makes use of pantry staples—on this case, flour, cornmeal, and molasses—in a inventive method to make a hearty multi-purpose bread that’s nice as a desk bread or for sandwiches.

Rising up in Maine, I usually loved anadama bread eating out with my household—it was a bread basket-staple at family-style eating places there. I’ve at all times cherished the candy taste and barely nubbly texture of anadama bread by itself, and it is even higher when toasted and slathered with salted butter, so I used to be excited to dig into the bread’s historical past and develop my very own recipe for a flavorful, satisfying model of this traditional bread.

Critical Eats / Debbie Wee

Origins of Anadama Bread

In researching the origins of the loaf, I got here throughout many tales of how this bread supposedly obtained its title. In a single model of the folklore, a fisherman residing on the North Shore of Massachusetts within the mid-1800s was served a supper of cornmeal mush by his spouse, Anna. Dissatisfied with being served this dinner one too many occasions, the fisherman declared “Anna, rattling her!” and added flour, yeast, and molasses to the cornmeal combination to show it into bread as a substitute. In different tellings of the story, a New England sea captain had a spouse named Anna who was an excellent baker, and was well-known for her cornmeal and molasses bread. When she died, her husband put up a headstone in her honor studying, “Anna was a stunning bride, however Anna, Rattling’er, up and died.” Thus, the bread turned referred to as “Annadammer” or “Annadama.”

In actuality, New England bakers have been making breads incorporating cornmeal and molasses, comparable to johnnycakes, for the reason that Colonial period. However, in accordance with Jonathan Deutsch’s guide We Eat What? A Cultural Encyclopedia of Uncommon Meals in the US, in 1850 the title “Anadama” for this type of bread was patented by a bakery in both Rockport or Gloucester, Massachusetts. An organization named Anadama Mixes, Inc. began advertising and marketing the bread to clients in 1876. My guess is that these apocryphal tales stemmed from advertising and marketing supplies trying to show clients the right way to pronounce the title of the product. However, we’ll most likely by no means know for positive.

Making a Nice Anadama Loaf

What we do know, nonetheless, is that this bread is (rattling) scrumptious. Staying true to not less than one of many tales, I begin by making a cornmeal porridge on the stovetop. Cooking the cornmeal this fashion hydrates and barely softens it, which helps hold the baked loaf from being dry and gritty. 1 / 4 cup of molasses stirred into the cornmeal provides a light-weight sweetness and caramel colour to the bread with out overpowering it. Steadily working the combination of flour, yeast, and salt into the porridge types a stiff dough which turns delicate and pliable because it proves.

Critical Eats / Debbie Wee

Shaping the dough right into a easy cylinder earlier than tucking it tightly right into a loaf pan provides it a traditional sandwich bread form whereas letting it rise till an inch above the pan ensures correct proofing for a fluffy, tender crumb. Should you underproof it lower than this, it’s seemingly the loaf will prove dense and squat.

I end the bread by brushing the highest of the loaf with a bit of bit of additional butter for a beautiful, shiny, delicate crust that I simply know would make Anna (if she ever existed) proud.