Europe has some superb winter resorts. Most individuals robotically head to the Alps, but it surely’s completely price protecting an open thoughts for different mountain ranges, particularly in the event you like issues a bit extra relaxed and genuine.
Enter the Pyrenees.
The Pyrenees supply a extra rugged, wild-feeling various to the Alps, with smaller villages, friendlier value tags, and correct mountain character. You possibly can trip powder within the morning and finish the day soaking in thermal swimming pools or lingering over a hearty dinner in a stone-built village.
Final summer season I used to be already within the space and people rock formations actually surprised me – under no circumstances what I anticipated. So I used to be critically wanting ahead to coming again in winter, testing the pistes and circumstances with a snowboard below my ft.
Right here is an summary:
Why go? Genuine allure, usually decrease costs than many big-name Alpine resorts, and the prospect to expertise completely different valleys and vibes in a single journey.
Should do: Spend a day snowboarding or snowboarding the Pic du Midi space or Saint-Lary-Soulan, then unwind in one of many thermal baths that the area is known for.
Professional tip: Renting a automobile makes it a lot simpler to hop between valleys, ski areas and villages, however in winter you’ll need winter tyres or snow chains – mountain passes right here can get correctly snowy.
On this journey I rode the areas round Pic du Midi (Grand Tourmalet), plus Vallée du Louron, Saint-Lary-Soulan and Piau Engaly / Peyragudes.
If you wish to plan your individual route via the French Pyrenees, the official vacation spot web site pyrenees-holiday.com is a extremely helpful hub for concepts, maps and present information.
Arrival within the French Pyrenees
Often I pack my automobile and drive 8–9 hours into the Alps, with the entire automobile swallowed by snowboard gear. From my hometown to the Pyrenees, although, it will be nearer to a 15-hour drive, so this time I went for the flight choice. I flew into Toulouse, which is then roughly a 2-hour drive to lots of the primary ski valleys… rather more practical for an extended weekend.
Subsequent time, if I keep longer, I’d in all probability drive once more, only for the pliability.
It’s additionally price checking if you may get a flight to Tarbes–Lourdes–Pyrénées Airport, which is nearer to resorts like Grand Tourmalet and Saint-Lary than Toulouse. There’s additionally Altiport Peyresourde–Balestas (close to Peyragudes), which is used for small plane and generally winter operations, however schedules are restricted and really seasonal. At all times double-check routes and availability in your dates.
And sure, there may be that one “shitty airline” flying into a few of these smaller airports – many individuals use it fairly fortunately. I nonetheless keep away from for good causes. 😏
Picture by CallumJelley, INTERSPORT.
Rental Gear
As a substitute of paying a heavy baggage payment to carry my very own snowboard, I rented my complete setup at an Intersport store within the resort – together with boots. That meant I might journey with hand baggage solely and nonetheless have all the things I wanted for a correct snowboard journey. I simply clipped my helmet onto the skin of my small backpack and no one minded. If they’d, it will have develop into my “flight-security-helmet”. 😉
On my subsequent journey I’ll carry my very own boots. Rental boots had been OKish, however with my very own I do know I get the precise grip and match I like.
The remainder? That’s as much as Intersport, and I used to be very pleased with the rental gear. The standard of rental skis and snowboards is high, and also you’ll discover Intersport retailers in just about each main ski resort, usually multiple. So getting gear isn’t any difficulty, and costs are truthful… 19 € per day for a weekend rental, is great worth in comparison with airline baggage charges.
For reference, a 3‑day rental (snowboard + boots) price:
- 56 € net value
- 53 € constancy value
- 112 € in-store value
It’s roughly 14 € cheaper in the event you carry your individual boots. Helmet rental could be round 12 € for 3 days. Costs do differ between retailers and resorts, but it surely’s nonetheless usually cheaper than paying for cumbersome sports activities baggage on a flight.
You possibly can browse choices and e book your gear forward of time right here: www.intersportrent.com
Intersport runs greater than 750 ski rent retailers throughout the Alps and Pyrenees, so that you’re not often removed from a store or rental counter within the larger resorts. Renting on-site saves airline baggage charges, lightens what you haul via airports, and ensures you get freshly serviced skis or boards arrange by individuals who do that all season.
You possibly can usually swap tools if circumstances change (e.g., go from an all‑mountain board to one thing extra freeride‑oriented, or from piste skis to one thing with extra float). Many retailers even have trendy boot-fitting setups, together with Boot Physician scanners in chosen areas, which assist to match the appropriate becoming boots to your ft.
Ski and Snowboard Baggage with Air France
For those who need to include their very own gear. Likely you’ll get a flight with Air France they usually deal with ski and snowboard tools as commonplace baggage, so long as it matches inside your checked baggage allowance and also you’re not on a “Mild” fare. In apply which means: one pair of skis with poles and boots, or one snowboard with boots, in applicable baggage with a mixed size below 300 cm. Boots could be in a separate bag, however ski/board bag plus boot bag rely as one piece.
If you’d like further baggage or exceed measurement/weight, you pay further choices on-line or on the airport. Helmets within the cabin rely as a part of your hand baggage. ABS avalanche backpacks have to be declared upfront and permitted at the very least 48 hours earlier than departure resulting from security rules. For the most recent baggage guidelines and any adjustments, all the time double-check the present Air France Baggage Information on their web site earlier than you fly.
Ski resort La Mongie and Pic du Midi
The primary cease within the French Pyrenees was La Mongie. We arrived after darkish, catching solely silhouettes of the mountains round us. Waking up and pulling again the curtains is the magic second on any mountain journey… and right here it was only a sea of white, with mountains rolling off in each route.
La Mongie is on the Grand Tourmalet area, named after the well-known Tourmalet cross from the Tour de France. The ski space hyperlinks La Mongie on one facet with Barèges on the opposite, giving a very good mixture of lengthy groomers, large pistes and extra adventurous areas when the snow is correct.
Within the morning we grabbed our gear and hit many of the the pistes and likewise the one which run from La Mongie throughout into the broader Grand Tourmalet space. Round noon we took the cable automobile as much as Pic du Midi, in all probability essentially the most iconic summit within the French Pyrenees. This peak is house to an observatory, a museum space, a restaurant and an enormous viewing terrace. On a transparent day, you get severe, horizon‑filling views over Pyrenees ridgelines and much into Spain.
Contained in the advanced, there are exhibitions concerning the web site’s historical past and astronomy, plus tools like sun-tracking telescopes. It’s genuinely spectacular how they constructed and keep all of this on a excessive, uncovered summit. The restaurant du Pic du Midi was the ultimate contact that made it even higher.
Sensible information (tickets, restaurant, opening particulars): picdumidi.com
For those who like going off‑piste, it’s attainable to trip down from Pic du Midi, finest with a information and solely when the circumstances are secure. There’s a flatter part between steeper pitches which could be annoying on a snowboard, particularly if the snow is gradual, so hold that in thoughts. I selected to trip from the mid‑station as an alternative, which ought to have been a playful line. On my day it was icy, so it wasn’t fairly the dreamy pow run – however on the appropriate day, this space is a traditional Pyrenees freeride expertise.
Restaurant du Pic du Midi
The Restaurant du Pic du Midi sits on the base of the museum advanced on the high cable automobile station. The inside is easy, minimalist and trendy – first impression is nearly canteen‑like – however the plates that come out of the kitchen are way more refined than that vibe suggests.
Components are sourced regionally from producers within the area, they usually’re listed on the menu, which is a pleasant contact in the event you prefer to know the place your meals comes from. Workers had been pleasant and environment friendly, and, after all, the true star is the large panorama exterior the home windows.
Information and reservations:
Hôtel La Voie Lactée (La Mongie)
This resort turned out to be an excellent decide. It’s a 4‑star property proper by the slopes in La Mongie that was fully renovated and reopened in 2023, and it reveals: all the things from the foyer to the rooms seems contemporary, heat and thoughtfully designed.
The decor is trendy with out feeling excessive – a number of good materials, colors and particulars, even the crockery stands out. Workers had been pleasant and switched simply into good English, which helped lots since my French is… not nice. My room was tremendous snug, with wonderful bedding and a few of the coziest pillows and mattress I’ve had shortly. Getting up early for first lifts was genuinely a problem.
The resort additionally leans and truly pushes sustainability, which is so essential! For instance, the stylish wash basin in my toilet was created from recycled plastic collected on French seashores. It seemed good and that’s one of many some ways to do it proper.
Breakfast was one other spotlight: assorted, beneficiant and with loads of good-quality native merchandise. The view from my room, searching over snow‑coated peaks and lifts heading up into the mountains, was a type of views you keep in mind lengthy after you’ve checked out.
Peyragudes and Vallée du Louron
Subsequent up was Peyragudes, and that is the place the storm actually kicked in. It began snowing in the course of the evening and simply didn’t cease. Till late within the afternoon there was sufficient contemporary snow that you possibly can do powder activates the pistes themselves. Visibility got here and went – one second you noticed the following marker, the following you had been in a white bubble – which made it fairly difficult for freshmen, however for powder lovers it was a enjoyable setup.
There are many chairlifts in Peyragudes, so even on a weekend we barely queued. It wasn’t a loopy busy interval anyway, and having a mixture of large pistes and ungroomed edges made it simple to seek out your individual traces. Peyragudes sits above the Louron Valley, which has actually leaned into a mixture of snowboarding, thermal baths and out of doors actions, so it’s a very good base in the event you like selection over per week.
L’étape du rider by chez Manu
After slicing some traces within the contemporary snow we stopped for lunch at L’étape du rider, a small, cosy hut proper on the piste. Location‑sensible it’s very best: clip out of your bindings, stroll a number of steps, and also you’re inside with one thing scorching in your palms.
On busy days, it’s sensible to order, particularly if you wish to sit inside. On sunny days, the terrace is the place to be, with views over the slopes when the clouds clear. The menu runs from correct meals like burgers and lasagne to scorching candies and mulled wine. The whole lot we tried was tasty, the service was cheerful, and the ambiance felt relaxed slightly than rushed. I received informed the mountain views are normally nice – I primarily noticed a wall of snowflakes.
Maison La Flambée (Bordères-Louron)
Maison La Flambée is a giant, cosy cottage in Bordères-Louron that’s good in the event you’re travelling with a gaggle or as a household. It hits that candy spot between character and practicality: a number of bedrooms, a number of loos, a completely geared up kitchen and sufficient house that folks can unfold out a bit.
There’s an enormous kitchen the place you may prepare dinner huge meals collectively, a pool desk for evenings, a heat oven, and a terrace the place you may sit out when the climate permits. It really works nicely for multi‑era journeys or a gaggle of associates. The encircling Louron Valley is gorgeous and gives snowboarding, mountaineering, and loads of slower‑paced “simply chill out” time. The house owners are pleasant and really palms‑on in the event you need assistance with something.
Aside Resort des Cols
Aside Resort des Cols is one other stable base within the space. Rooms are properly adorned, beds are snug, and all the things feels nicely maintained. Small touches like intelligent lighting and correct blackout blinds make a giant distinction after lengthy days within the snow.
Every unit has a little bit kitchen nook with what it is advisable to put collectively breakfast or easy meals. By automobile it’s simple to succeed in Loudenvielle and Saint-Lary, so you may ski one valley, soak in one other and nonetheless be again at your house and not using a lengthy drive. It really works nicely if you wish to discover on foot, by bike or by automobile in different seasons, and in winter it’s shut sufficient to the lifts to make ski days easy. The bar space is an efficient spot to unwind with a drink and meet different friends. For those who ought to determine to have raclette within the night, don’t bbq your meat on the high… in the event you do, watch the fireplace alarm. 😏
Balnéa Spa (Loudenvielle)
After a full day on the mountain, Balnéa in Loudenvielle is a traditional place to decelerate. It’s the primary giant thermal leisure centre within the French Pyrenees, set proper within the Louron Valley, and makes use of naturally sulfurous thermal water in its swimming pools. There are themed areas impressed by completely different bathing cultures – Roman, Japanese, Inca, Native American – plus a separate Tibetan zone targeted on therapies and massages.
You’ll discover each indoor and out of doors swimming pools, together with areas aimed toward households and extra quiet corners (at the very least in concept). When it’s busy, anticipate noise virtually all over the place, particularly within the household swimming pools; one pool was full of small youngsters and infants once I visited, so be ready for that.
Males will not be allowed to put on swim shorts; tight‑becoming swimwear is required, and you should purchase an appropriate pair on the entrance for round 16 €. I don’t know why, but it surely appears to be some form of unusual legislation in France.
Sensible information and present costs:
Saint-Lary-Soulan
The snow nonetheless didn’t let up after we moved on to Saint-Lary-Soulan, which made for an additional wonderful day on the board. A part of our group went absolutely off‑piste with a information. It was my first journey again into the snow that season and my ankle was nonetheless complaining after torn ligaments, so I made a decision to dial it again a bit and stayed “principally” on marked runs.
Judging by the images I noticed afterwards, that was not my most impressed choice. They scored deep powder and large smiles. I nonetheless had a enjoyable day lapping the pistes, however subsequent time I’ll be extra tempted to hitch our information Polo on the steeper traces.
You begin your day by taking the gondola from the village of Saint-Lary-Soulan as much as Pla d’Adet. From there, the ski space opens up with completely different sectors and a very good mixture of runs. Situations for us had been improbable – contemporary snow, clouds principally sitting decrease within the valleys, and good visibility greater up.
Saint-Lary-Soulan’s ski space is among the largest within the Pyrenees, with round 100–105 km of pistes between roughly 1,600 and a pair of,515 metres altitude, served by about two dozen lifts. It stretches from the village (a correct spa city within the valley) as much as excessive, open slopes with lengthy runs and an honest snowpark.
We kicked issues off at Pla d’Adet with a espresso at La Bergerie, then spent the day exploring completely different pistes and following the very best snow.
Les 3 Guides
Les 3 Guides is a useful spot to take a break within the Saint-Lary ski space. It’s near a carry, so you may simply time a fast cease between laps or use it as a extra relaxed lunch base. Workers had been pleasant, fast and environment friendly, even when issues received busy.
You possibly can seize something from a easy espresso or a chilly drink to full plates and snacks. On sunny days, the large terrace is the place you need to be, searching over the slopes. If the climate turns, the indoor space is cosy sufficient to cover from the wind and snowfall for some time.
The City Saint-Lary-Soulan
Saint-Lary-Soulan itself is a giant a part of why this space works so nicely for a winter journey. It’s a correct Pyrenean village slightly than only a goal‑constructed resort, with stone homes, slender streets and a centre that feels lived‑in 12 months‑spherical. In winter, all the things is geared in direction of skiers and snowboarders, however you continue to get that small‑city ambiance slightly than simply rows of condo blocks.
The village is named a spa city, with a thermal centre (Sensoria) that makes use of scorching spring water from the valley. After a day on the slopes you may swap your boots for a swimsuit and soak in heat swimming pools with mountain views. The principle avenue is lined with bars, eating places and retailers, plus a vacationer workplace the place you may decide up maps or information on snowshoes, off‑piste guides and winter mountaineering.
What a shock… there may be even an Irish Pub.
Saint-Lary can be a hub for different actions within the Aure Valley: snowshoe journeys, sledding, ice waterfalls in chilly spells, canine sledding and even paragliding flights when the climate cooperates. The valley additionally provides entry to wild corners of the Pyrenees just like the Néouvielle Nature Reserve and Lac de l’Oule space, which you’ll attain from the resort by way of ski runs or lifts after which discover with a information.
The village itself sits roughly 2 hours by street from Toulouse and about an hour from the Spanish border by way of the tunnel, which makes it simple to mix a French Pyrenees base with a facet‑journey into Spain if in case you have a automobile.
Le Gros Minet
Le Gros Minet is a type of Saint-Lary-Soulan addresses that locals and returning friends are inclined to know. Tucked simply off the primary avenue in a small deadlock, it has been round for many years and mixes a relaxed tapas‑bar really feel with a correct grill restaurant. Assume energetic ambiance, wooden‑fired flavours and plates which might be made for sharing after an extended day within the chilly.
The menu leans in direction of conventional French cooking with a Pyrenean twist: grilled meats cooked over charcoal, hearty dishes, salads and tapas‑type small plates you may break up with the desk. It’s not haute delicacies, however hearty, satisfying meals with beneficiant parts. I selected the duck burger, which was yummy. The eating room is compact and fills up shortly in peak weeks, so reserving forward is strongly really helpful in the course of the winter season.
Why the French Pyrenees Are Value It
After this journey, it’s fairly clear why the French Pyrenees deserve extra consideration from skiers and snowboarders: you get severe mountains, good snow, and sufficient terrain to maintain you busy for per week – however with a extra laid‑again vibe and normally higher worth than many huge Alpine names.
You possibly can mix completely different valleys like Grand Tourmalet, Vallée du Louron and Aure Valley, combine powder days with thermal baths, and base your self in actual villages like Saint-Lary-Soulan or Loudenvielle that also really feel alive exterior peak weeks. With simple gear rental via networks like Intersport, plus airports like Toulouse and Tarbes-Lourdes not too far-off, organising an extended weekend or a full week is simple.
For those who like the concept of huge mountains however smaller crowds for much less cash, and swapping the traditional Alpine clichés for one thing a bit extra rugged and genuine, the French Pyrenees must be very excessive in your winter record.
