Our Culinary Crew Explains the (Very Vital!) Distinction



I’ve by no means recognized my dad and mom’ pantry to be with out giant (very giant) baggage of all-purpose flour and bread flour. After I was rising up, my mother would usually use AP flour to make a easy dough for manaeesh, a Center Jap spherical flatbread sometimes topped with cheese or za’atar. She often used bread flour every time we determined to make a home made pizza, and I at all times observed that we went by means of it at a a lot slower tempo than all-purpose flour, however I did not absolutely grasp the distinction between the 2 forms of flour till I grew to become an editor at Critical Eats. 

Each bread flour and all-purpose flour have particular makes use of within the kitchen, and it’s essential to understand how their variations can have an effect on your baking and cooking—as a result of they will have an effect on it very a lot. “The rule of thumb isn’t change one type of flour with one other in a recipe—it may well actually mess issues up,” says Editorial Director Daniel, who by no means misses an opportunity to nerd out concerning the science of proteins in flour. I additionally spoke with Culinary Editor Genevieve, who has skilled and labored as a baker, to be taught extra about these variations and easy methods to use every in recipes. 

The Key Distinction Between All-Objective and Bread Flour and All-Objective Flour: It is All About Protein

The largest distinction between all-purpose and bread flours is their protein content material. The protein content material in bread flour ranges from 12 to 14%, the best amongst refined wheat flours. All-purpose flour, alternatively, accommodates a reasonable protein content material of 9 to 12%, making it a way more versatile flour choice. These protein ranges immediately relate to how a lot gluten the flours can produce, which determines the construction and chewiness of the completed baked items.

Critical Eats / Vicky Wasik


Gluten is shaped when two proteins, glutenin and gliadin, are blended with water or one other water-based liquid. The upper the protein content material, the extra gluten improvement there could be. Decrease-protein flours are preferable for tender baked items like muffins, biscuits, cookies, and muffins, for instance, since an excessive amount of gluten would make them harder and chewier. Larger-protein flours, alternatively, can produce stronger, extra elastic doughs which can be vital for a greater crumb and rise in crusty breads, pizza doughs, and bagels—it is the power and elasticity of a high-gluten dough that improves its skill to lure gasoline bubbles and kind puffy air pockets throughout baking. 

The tough factor about bread and AP flours is that there are not any strict guidelines, that means the precise protein proportion depends upon the model. That is why our recipes generally name out sure manufacturers of flour. For instance, King Arthur sells an all-purpose flour that has an unusually excessive protein content material verging on bread flour ranges. As a lot as we love King Arthur merchandise, we are likely to keep away from their AP flour for that reason—it is simply an excessive amount of of an outlier. (Our baguette recipe is only one exception to this, because it requires a high-protein AP flour for a correct crisp and tender texture, and King Arthur, with its higher-than-normal 11.7% protein quantity, matches the invoice.)

A safer guess for AP flour is a model like Gold Medal, which is 10.5% protein, a pleasant candy spot so far as all-purpose flours go (and no, they are not paying us to say this!). For breads the place you need a extra tender texture, go for AP flour with a decrease protein content material, like White Lily.

Frequent Makes use of for Bread Flour and All-Objective Flour

There are not any hard-and-fast guidelines about whether or not it is best to use bread or AP flour in any given recipe—within the fingers of a educated baker, many recipes could be made to work both means, and AP flour particularly is a flexible flour that may seem in recipes starting from delicate pastries to hearty sourdough loaves (it’s all-purpose, in any case). That stated, the 2 flours have completely different benefits that may make them roughly applicable for numerous recipes.

Bread flour.

Critical Eats / Vicky Wasik


Bread flour, because the identify suggests, is used to make sturdier doughs for breads, bagels, and pizza; bread flour can also seem in recipes for extra tender, fat-rich doughs like challah as a result of their fats content material inhibits gluten formation, one thing of a balancing act that helps to reach at a loaf that is each tender but in addition substantive. Nevertheless, not all bread recipes require bread flour. Fluffier breads (each candy and savory) like focaccia and cinnamon rolls lean on AP flour, however in case you’re involved in making challah or sure flatbreads often, then you definately’ll wish to preserve a bag of bread flour available. 

Critical Eats / Vicky Wasik


All-purpose flour is a extra versatile flour, and is usually a most well-liked selection for recipe builders, together with our personal, because it’s protected to imagine most individuals have already got it of their pantry. “There is a purpose it is referred to as all-purpose,” says Genevieve. “I take advantage of it for many baking” A lot of our bread recipes, together with white bread, sourdough, and Parker Home rolls, name for AP flour because it’s potential to formulate nice recipes utilizing it with out requiring one thing like bread flour, which dwelling cooks are much less more likely to have at dwelling.

Can You Substitute All-Objective for Bread Flour, and Vice Versa?

It’s at all times greatest to comply with recipe pointers, and we don’t suggest swapping one flour for the opposite except you’re a talented baker and know easy methods to alter accordingly—the protein distinction between bread and all-purpose flour means they usually require completely different ranges of hydration and strategies of dealing with. It’s often not so simple as a 1:1 swap. Nevertheless, we’ve beforehand examined mixing AP flour with very important wheat gluten as an alternative to bread flour, and it really works in a pinch (this was particularly useful in the course of the pandemic, when everybody was making sourdough and bread flour was often out of inventory). 

“Recipes with flour are formulated fastidiously for a particular sort of flour and swapping one for an additional is in no way a given,” says Daniel. “In case you do swap, be ready to not be blissful along with your outcomes, and blame nobody however your self.” Genevieve provides that in case you swap bread flour instead of AP flour, “anticipate no matter you’re making to be fairly bready. Which could be tremendous for a bran muffin or banana muffin however in all probability not perfect if that is not what you are going for.”

The Takeaway

Bread and all-purpose flour differ of their protein contents. Bread flour accommodates a spread of 12 to 14% protein, whereas all-purpose flour is barely decrease at 9 to 12%. This distinction in protein could seem small, however it may well produce remarkably completely different outcomes. This implies it’s essential to make use of the fitting sort of flour referred to as for in a recipe to make sure the most effective outcomes. So whereas I do know I’ll undergo a bag of AP flour a lot faster than bread flour—particularly with all of the manaeesh my mother makes—I at all times preserve bread flour available for every time it is time for a pizza night time.



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