A few of the greatest whisky on the planet doesn’t come from Scotland.
The primary time I had heard of Japanese whisky was over a decade in the past whereas on trip in Texas nursing a day Outdated Common and scrapping with the chatty bartender about American versus Celtic whiskies. He obtained busy with one thing and disappeared for a bit then introduced his return by sliding a brand new glass my means with an enormous smile on his face. “Do that.”
For a very long time, Scotch was the usual. It had the historical past, the local weather, the craftsmanship. Should you wished to drink the very best, you drank Scotch. Then one thing modified. Not in a single day, however steadily. Japan began making whisky that would compete—and win.
In 2001, a Japanese whisky beat out the world in a blind style check by Whisky Journal, taking their high prize. Since then, distilleries like Suntory and Nikka have turn out to be family names to whisky followers in all places. Their bottles now often place on the high of competitions from San Francisco to Glasgow. The previous assumptions about who made the very best not held.
However this didn’t come out of nowhere.
What Units Japanese Whisky Aside
Japanese whisky began as a devoted duplicate of Scotch. The methods, substances, and even the spelling of “whisky” have been carried over from Scotland. Early distillers studied in Scottish distilleries, used pot stills, and in some instances imported barley and gear immediately from the supply. So on paper, Japanese whisky and Scotch look very comparable.
However over time, Japanese whisky developed its personal identification.
The local weather in Japan is extra variable—humid summers, chilly winters—which ends up in a extra dynamic ageing course of. Japanese spring water, typically sourced from mountains or pure springs, brings a softness and readability to the whisky’s texture.
Mizunara oak, native to Japan, is one other hallmark. It’s troublesome to work with and takes a long time to mature, but it surely contributes unmistakable flavors: sandalwood, incense, and delicate spice.
The strategy to mixing is completely different too. Whereas Scotch blends typically mix whiskies from numerous corporations, Japanese distilleries usually produce all kinds of kinds in-house to mix internally. That permits for a extra managed, nuanced closing product.
By way of style, Japanese whisky is usually extra restrained. The place some (however not all, a typical false impression) Scotch whiskies lean heavy on peat, brine, or sherry richness, Japanese expressions are likely to goal for delicacy and element. You may discover floral notes like cherry blossom or iris, inexperienced apple, honey, or a contact of white pepper. Peat is used, however with a lighter hand. It typically feels quieter on the palate—much less about hitting you with one sturdy taste and extra about evolving layers.
It’s not merely Scotch made someplace else like “glowing wine” not from Champagne, France. It’s whisky made with a special perspective.
How It Began
The roots of Japanese whisky return to Shinjiro Torii, a pharmaceutical wholesaler who opened a wine store in Osaka in 1899. He finally shifted to home spirits, and in 1923 he based Kotobukiya—which might turn out to be Suntory—and opened Japan’s first whisky distillery in Yamazaki.
Torii had assist. Masataka Taketsuru, a younger chemist, traveled to Scotland in 1918 to review chemistry and be taught the craft of whisky-making firsthand. He apprenticed at distilleries throughout areas like Speyside and Campbeltown, taking detailed notes alongside the best way. When he returned to Japan, he partnered with Torii and helped launch Suntory’s first whisky in 1924. A decade later, Taketsuru left to open his personal distillery, Yoichi, in Hokkaido—a spot he selected as a result of its climate reminded him of Scotland.
Right now, Suntory and Nikka are the 2 giants of Japanese whisky, and it began with these two males.
Distilleries to Know
Simply because the whisky areas of Scotland produce dramatically completely different taste profiles resulting from native situations and pure sources, Japanese whiskies profit from the particular environments of their distilleries.
Take Yamazaki. The distillery sits simply exterior Kyoto, surrounded by forests and spring water. Torii believed good water made good whisky, and Yamazaki is understood for its delicate, clear minerality. They use quite a lot of nonetheless shapes to create whiskies with completely different profiles, and so they age a lot of their expressions within the beforehand talked about Mizunara oak giving it a particular taste.
Then there’s Hakushu, launched in 1973 within the Japanese Alps. The excessive altitude and funky local weather give its whisky a freshness and lightweight smoke that stands out. Hakushu and Yamazaki whiskies are sometimes blended into Suntory’s award-winning Hibiki line.
Over at Nikka, Yoichi stays fiercely conventional. They nonetheless use coal-fired pot stills—a way nearly completely deserted elsewhere—as a result of it provides a daring, smoky character. Miyagikyo, Nikka’s second distillery, opened in 1969 in a lush valley exterior Sendai. It produces a softer, fruitier whisky that balances Yoichi’s depth.
A youthful distillery, Chichibu, based in 2004 and operational by ’08, has shortly gained consideration worldwide. With small-scale manufacturing and a hands-on strategy, its whiskies are already extremely collectible.
A Observe on Shortage
The elevated repute of Japanese whisky has positioned it in excessive demand, and lots of the bottles that have been as soon as reasonably priced and accessible have turn out to be arduous to search out. Some age-statement expressions, like Hakushu 12 or Yamazaki 12, have been even pulled from manufacturing for just a few years as a result of there simply wasn’t sufficient mature whisky to bottle. Some are again now, however costs have risen. Hakushu 12 returned to cabinets in restricted releases beginning in 2021, however availability remains to be tight.
Should you’re simply getting began, search for non-age-statement expressions like Suntory Toki, Hibiki Japanese Concord, Nikka Days, or Nikka From the Barrel. These are simpler to search out and nonetheless supply an excellent introduction to the fashion.
The place to Begin
Listed below are just a few suggestions should you’re new to Japanese whisky:
Hibiki Japanese Concord
Created to hold on the Hibiki line after aged expressions just like the 17 and 21 grew to become more durable to provide, Concord is a mix from Suntory’s three distilleries designed for steadiness and class. It’s easy, floral, and approachable, with notes of orange, chocolate, mild oak, and a contact of smoke. Nice neat or in a highball. Normally $80–$110.
Nikka From the Barrel
A mix with depth and spice. Daring, fruity, and warming. Search for notes like clove, cherry, and toffee. Extensively accessible, normally round $80–100.
Nikka Coffey Grain
Made in conventional Coffey stills. Sweeter and smoother, nearly bourbon-like. Count on flavors of vanilla, tropical fruit, and caramel. Round $55–90.
What’s a Coffey Nonetheless?
A Coffey nonetheless (pronounced “espresso”) is a sort of steady nonetheless invented within the 1830s by Aeneas Coffey. In contrast to conventional pot stills, which work in batches, a Coffey nonetheless can distill repeatedly, producing a cleaner, softer spirit. That makes it preferrred for delicate, candy grain whiskies.
Whereas some Scotch distillers nonetheless use Coffey stills for grain whisky utilized in blends, most single malts depend on pot stills for his or her fuller taste. Within the US, fashionable column stills have advanced from the Coffey design, however they’re constructed for quantity, not nuance. Nikka is likely one of the solely distillers on the planet that makes use of conventional Coffey stills to create whiskies which are bottled and celebrated on their very own—like Nikka Coffey Grain and Nikka Coffey Malt. These supply a easy, nearly bourbon-like expertise with distinct notes of vanilla and caramel.
Suntory Toki
Gentle, easy-drinking, and reasonably priced. Nice for highballs. Delicate hints of apple, basil, and honey. Usually beneath $50.
Hakushu 12 (if you will discover it)
Contemporary, evenly peated, and sophisticated. You may style pear, mint, and faint smoke. Normally $160 and up.
Yamazaki 12 (if you will discover it)
Delicate and layered with fruit, oak, and spice. Notes of cinnamon. Usually $160+, relying on demand.