Tips on how to Use Your Favourite Forgotten Spice of the ’90s



Pink Peppercorns

Description: Small, spherical seeds with a pinkish crimson hue from Peruvian (schinus molle) and Brazilian (schinus terebinthifolius) pepper timber
Taste profile:
Floral, fruity, peppery
Associated cuisines:
Thai, Mediterranean, French, South American 
Storage:  
In a tightly sealed, non-porous jar, entire pink peppercorns will final about 18 months.

In a sea of black, white, and inexperienced peppercorns, pink peppercorns know how one can stand out. I first took discover of the spice in a souk in Morocco, the place its vivid pink hue appeared to overshadow the numerous earthy-colored spices surrounding it. It laid in a big pile, the colourful spheres nestled inside one another. After I reached all the way down to seize a handful and put it as much as my nostril, its sharp, peppery scent blended with rosy notes enveloped my nostrils. I knew I had landed on one thing particular, so I bought a small quantity to take residence and provides it a attempt. 

It was solely after discovering the spice myself that I realized it’s not really a pepper, however as a substitute a berry. It provides a vivid, fruity, and floral notice to something it touches—when you get the cling of it, you’ll wish to use it anyplace you’ll be able to. We spoke with Claire Cheney—founder and self-proclaimed “Blender-in-Chief” of Curio Spice, a spice store in Cambridge, Massachusetts—to study extra about how one can reap the benefits of this vivid, flavorful spice, in addition to the place it comes from and the way to buy it. 

Critical Eats / Amanda Suarez


What Are Pink Peppercorns?

Pink peppercorns aren’t really associated to the opposite varieties we’re extra conversant in, which come from the Piper nigrum plant. As a substitute, they’re the ripe berries of the Peruvian (schinus molle) and Brazilian (schinus terebinthifolius) pepper timber. The peppercorns belong to the Anacardiaceae household, together with cashews, pistachios, and mangoes. Within the US, the berries are thought of an invasive species, a lot in order that Cheney notes that since they thrive in coastal environments, you’ll be able to even discover them on the facet of the street in Florida. They’ve even been known as “Florida holly.” 

“[A pink peppercorn] simply so occurs to be the identical common measurement as a black peppercorn, so it type of bought this misnomer,” says Cheney: “Whereas it does have slightly pepperiness to it, it would not have the compound known as pipperine, which is what offers black, inexperienced, and white peppers their warmth.” 

Critical Eats / Amanda Suarez


Whereas pink peppercorns are available at spice markets right this moment, our senior culinary director, Daniel Gritzer, considers them to be extra of a meals (and a meals pattern) related to the ‘80s and ‘90s. “It was a fad ingredient that caught hearth for some time due to its visible pop, barely floral, and solely vaguely peppery taste, and tropical unique vibes,” he says. “However then I additionally keep in mind my dad telling me that they is likely to be toxic, which was apparently a little bit of late-Twentieth-century #fakenews that unfold due to a panicked media frenzy.” Within the Eighties, two scientists found the plant was intently associated to poison ivy, resulting in an importation ban by the FDA in 1982. Nevertheless, given their reputation in each French delicacies and agriculture, the island of Réunion, a French territory close to Madagascar, harvested various peppercorns. They then used analysis to argue in opposition to the toxicity of the spice, and the FDA finally reversed the ban. It’s value mentioning peppercorns are solely recognized to be poisonous in massive portions. 

“The entire state of affairs was much like the freakout across the identical time about MSG referred to as ‘Chinese language Restaurant Syndrome,’” says Gritzer. “Clearly the attraction to overseas meals was balanced by an equally substantial (and irrational) concern of them. Fairly shortly after that, the pink peppercorn pale away, solely to be discovered right this moment in dated-looking tricolor peppercorn blends and bars of white chocolate.”

Tips on how to Purchase and Retailer Pink Peppercorns

Although you could possibly discover pink peppercorns at your native grocery retailer, you’re extra prone to spot them in worldwide markets. Attributable to their risky oils, it’s uncommon to search out floor pink peppercorns on the market. They’re virtually all the time offered entire and may be crushed or floor proper earlier than use. 

“The construction of the seed itself is essential,” says Cheney. “There is a ton of pink pepper available on the market that’s very shriveled trying and never as tasty.” She advises searching for entire, excellent spheres with a deep pink or crimson coloration. Cheney notes that commodity stage spices are sometimes sundried, in flip destroying the construction of the berry and making a wrinkled look with a bitter style. Shade-dried pink peppercorns, however, will protect the sphere and maintain the risky oils in tact, which additional preserves the berry’s delicate taste. 

Excessive-quality entire peppercorns can final so long as 18 months if saved in a tightly sealed, non-porous jar that’s left in a cool, darkish, and dry place. 

Tips on how to Prepare dinner With Pink Peppercorns

The floral and fruity taste of pink peppercorns works properly in spice rubs for meat, poultry, and fish since it might probably uplift any heavy, wealthy notes. That fruitiness additionally accompanies substances like galangal, garlic, and lemongrass fairly properly, making it an excellent addition to many Thai curries. Since its coloration can add vibrancy to many dishes, Cheney recommends utilizing it as a garnish or a final step so the colour doesn’t fade when cooking; nevertheless, its fruity, floral notes will nonetheless come by means of after being cooked. 

Critical Eats / Amanda Suarez


The spice pairs properly with different spices like coriander, sesame, cinnamon, and mint. They do additionally go properly with different peppercorns, and also you’ll typically discover them dotted all through peppercorn mix grinders. Given the delicacy of the spice, when utilizing it by itself it’s finest to crush the peppercorns with a knife or a spice grinder as a substitute of a pepper mill. 

Cheney likes to make use of pink peppercorns entire or crushed to garnish salads and ceviche, including that you need to use the spice fairly generously in comparison with precise peppercorns. And in the case of unconventional makes use of, she notes that it additionally goes properly in lemony cocktails. “You may make a easy syrup out of it, she says, “and it supplies a very lovely coloration and taste for gin cocktails.”

November 2023



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